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Frequently Asked Questions

The best partners for Weed Man professionals are knowledgeable customers. For this reason, we provide more than just top quality lawn care services - we give you the information you need to keep your lawn healthy in between our scheduled visits. The true value of Weed Man’s service is often realized only when both the company and the customer are doing their part. Weed Man makes it a priority to provide each and every customer with post-treatment instructions as well as valuable information about proper mowing and watering practices. Many of our customers who continue to use our services year after year have discovered that their lush, green lawn is achieved as a result of their continuous partnership with Weed Man.

Have a question? Check out our FAQs below!

Mosquitoes are not particularly mobile and often stay within a few hundred feet of where they originally hatched. After the application, adult mosquitoes carry the chemicals back to their breeding grounds until breeding sites are completely eliminated.  

Your lawn needs 1 to 1-1/2" (3-4cm) of water weekly. Mother Nature provides water, but she sometimes needs help. To determine the need for supplemental water, look for these telltale signs of oncoming drought stress:

  • Areas of the lawn especially near concrete or asphalt (sidewalks and driveways), under large trees and on slopes, take on a dark, silvery or smoky blue-green haze. In extreme cases the lawn appears yellowish.
  • Footprints or lawnmower wheel marks don't spring back shortly after they are made.
If your lawn shows symptoms of drought, water it immediately regardless of the time of day. Under normal circumstances, early morning is the best time to water your lawn so that the leaves can dry slowly and naturally without too much evaporation, and instead with most of the water penetrating the soil. Regular, fairly deep watering is better than daily light sprinklings. Deep watering and allowing the lawn to dry out between watering will force the roots to penetrate deeper in search of moisture.

While a one-time treatment is effective in temporarily reducing mosquito populations, monthly treatments are required to continue the extermination cycle. 

A sharp clean cut will seal quickly and resist disease attack.

Mosquitoes tend to rest on the underside of leaf surfaces, in dense plant material such as trees, shrubs, hedges, grasses & under structures like decks, porches, and stairways. 

Remove mosquito habitats. Two stages of the mosquito lifecycle require water. Eliminating sources that collect standing water such as old tires, clogged gutters, bird baths or areas where puddles are formed effectively reduces mosquito breeding grounds. 

When applying, we always recommend that a customer waits approximately 30 minutes until the treated areas have dried. As soon as the product has dried, you can go back to enjoying your outdoor space.

Weeds compete with desirable lawn grasses for water, space, light and nutrients. They are very aggressive and can take over a lawn if not kept in check. It is when this type of imbalance occurs that many customers request help from Weed Man Professionals. Before this happens, a preventive approach to controlling weeds is recommended. It includes regular fertilization, proper mowing and correct watering practices. Weeds can also be controlled through digging or hand pulling. This method is much more labor intensive and is not always effective since many weeds can reproduce through vegetative parts if they are not entirely dug out.

One application will be effective for approximately 30 days.

Although water is a common breeding ground for mosquitoes, it would be environmentally irresponsible to treat these areas. For this reason, we maintain a safe distance from any water sources when applying our mosquito control treatment. 

Many dog owners get frustrated by the spots their pets leave on the lawn by going to the bathroom there, but there aren't many ways to avoid this other than training your dog to only go in one particular area of the lawn. The problem is that the high quantity of salt in the animal's urine essentially burns the turf. If this problem really bothers you, veterinarians offer some medicines that reduce the amount of salt in animal's urine and will at least minimize the problem.

Mosquito treatments whether they are natural based treatments or synthetic-based treatments are evaluated for safety from Canada’s Pest Management Regulatory Agency. These registered compounds are safe and effective when they are prepared and applied according to their labeled use. Prior to their approval for use, scientific risk-assessments are performed by the PMRA, using all available data. From such assessments, acceptable safe residue levels are established which is often six orders of magnitude—one-millionth—of levels that could be harmful. However, we do recommend that children and pets be kept inside during spraying, and for a minimum of 30 minutes after the application has been completed. 

You need to respect anything applied to your lawn. Obviously, you want to be aware of when an application is made to your lawn, and that's one reason why we post signs in your yard when we apply. You should then wait at least until the application dries before going on the grass or letting the pets out, and that can be 15 minutes or 24 hours. Be sure to ask your local Weed Man for the drying times of specific products. It's important that you know that these products have all been carefully screened and are regulated by the United States Environmental Protection Agency. On top of that, we as lawn care professionals have a broad range of products to choose from, and at Weed Man we focus on selecting the ones that are most friendly to our applicators.

During the growing season, in the absence of rain, a lawn may need 1-2 inches of irrigation to meet the water needs of your lawn. Infrequent, deep watering is best and only as needed. If you see signs of water deficiency (blue-gray coloring, or foot-printing,) you should water immediately to replenish the turf. In some parts of the country, lawns are allowed to go into summer dormancy and rely totally on rainfall to bring the lawn back to its previous healthy state. For irrigated turf, morning watering is best. Late day watering may promote disease activity in summer months because insufficient time was allowed for leaf drying.

Moles are mammals whose diet consists of mostly earthworms and grubs. Obviously, grubs are a choice treat, but not the only entree of distinction. Their random search for food is most active in the early morning and in the evening. Reduction of their food source, such as grubs, may discourage their activity, but don't expect them to leave immediately.

Lawns require fertilizer to maintain health and vigor. A well-fertilized lawn will be better at preventing weed infestation as well as drought and disease. Lawns that are thick and healthy can help the environment by producing oxygen, filtering and enhancing ground water quality, cooling the air during hot weather, trapping and absorbing urban dust and pollution, and providing a safer playing surface. It also helps people feel better about themselves and their surroundings. Weed Man offers our proprietary 24-4-16, 65% Slow Release Granular Fertilizer. Fertilizers must be applied evenly and at the proper rate to prevent burning or leaving stripes on the lawn. Your Weed Man professional will be happy to help.

There are a lot of questions here, but here is how we see it. Both dethatching (renovating) and core aeration will help reduce thatch levels. Mechanical dethatching / power raking will physically remove some measure of the thatch layer, oftentimes producing mountains of organic debris to be disposed of. It provides immediate satisfaction for the homeowner, but will often need to be repeated spring or fall annually to reduce heavily thatched areas. Secondly, it can make some lawns look a bit ragged if their root zones or density is already compromised. Weed Man prefers the benefits of aeration. Although the thatch reduction is a bit slower, the task is less physically demanding, as it not only reduces thatch over time, but also improves the soil condition by opening up the root zone for better rooting and uptake of water and nutrients. The thatch reduction will not be a result of physically removing thatch, but of creating an environment in the thatch layer that increases microbial activity as the soil and the microbes in the soil are redeposited on top and filter into the layer to digest the unwanted thatch. Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrasses, and fine fescues can build up this thatch layer, but perennial ryegrass and tall fescue seldom have a serious thatch accumulation. Aeration and dethatching should be done when the lawn is growing optimally. This means spring or fall for cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue, and during the summer months for warm season grasses like bermuda, zoysia, and St. Augustine.

Grass clippings should be left on the lawn when mowing. "Grass-cycling" is a natural and environmentally beneficial practice. Grass clippings are about 90 percent water by weight. Because they are high in protein they should be left on the lawn to decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Grass-cycling also reduces waste and conserves landfill space. It is only necessary to remove lawn clippings if they are long and will smother the lawn.

Although shade is a good thing, especially in the summer, it can be a significant limiting factor for lawns. Turf grass will respond to shade by leaf elongation and decreases in stand density. There may be instances where turf should not be attempted because of the low light intensity. Here are a few things you can do to help your lawn: mow a bit taller, overseed with a shade mix including grasses like creeping red fescue, keep leaf litter picked up, selectively prune dense trees to allow more filtered light to enter, and manage watering to avoid over watering and increasing disease incidence. Some types of trees, i.e. Silver Maples and Black Walnut, can be toxic to Bluegrass, making it difficult to grow Bluegrass under these trees.

Proper watering and mowing are the two biggest concerns. You need to mow at least once a week during growth periods. When mowing, sharp mower blades are extremely important. Rusty or dull blades rip the grass instead of cutting it, providing opportunities for problems, such as diseases, to infest the lawn. As for irrigation, you don't want to over water because that will set the grass up for disease problems as well. At the same time, underwatering stresses the turf and creates opportunities for weeds to grow. Be sure that your sprinkler system covers the lawn well and irrigates deeply to encourage deep root growth and makes the turf less susceptible to drought. Lastly, as your landscape develops, keep an eye on trees and shrubs and make sure they remain properly pruned or thinned to allow sufficient light to reach the lawn.

Your lawn should be mowed regularly at a proper height. This means that your lawn may require mowing more than once a week during peak growth and only once every two weeks during periods of slow growth. Since the root system of a grass plant grows proportionately to the above ground parts of the plant, a longer cutting height results in a stronger, deeper root system.

Cool Season Grasses

  • Kentucky Bluegrass 2.5 to 3 inches (60 - 75 mm)
  • Perennial Ryegrass 2.5 to 3 inches (60 - 75 mm)
  • Tall Rescue 2.5 to 4 inches (60 - 100 mm)
Warm Season Grasses
  • Common Bermuda 0.75 to 1.25 inches (20 - 30 mm)
  • Hybrid Bermuda 0.5 to 1.0 inches (12 - 25 mm)
  • St Augustine 2.0 to 4 inches (50 - 100 mm)
  • Zoysiagrass 1.0 to 2.5 inches (25 - 60 mm)
  • Centipedegrass 1.0 to 2.0 inches (25 - 50 mm)

Just because a front yard and backyard are on the same property, there's no guarantee they will have the same problems. And there can be any number of reasons for this. Perhaps the airflow isn't as good in the backyard because there is a fence and a more significant landscape there. Maybe the grass in the front yard is different than what's in the backyard, or the soils might even be different on various sides of the house. Any of these differences could lead to problems in one area but not the other.

One big reason is that you're hiring an expert who can diagnose problems. We can tell you whether or not the problem with your lawn is a disease, an insect or simply a lack of water, and that can be challenging for you, the homeowner, to do alone. In addition, when you hire Weed Man, you're buying a guarantee for results, and that's not always the case when you're buying products right off the shelf. We can offer our customers this type of commitment because we know we're applying the right amount of the right products at the right time, and do-it-yourselfers can't be sure of that. We'll keep coming out until the lawn meets your satisfaction. Plus, putting down the right product at the right rate and at the right time is especially important for many lawn problems, including crabgrass, and in some areas of the country, you may have to apply an herbicide twice to get control. We'll make sure that happens.

Unfortunately, lawn care is not like switching on a light and having the grass stay green all year. Just like people, lawns need continual feeding. There are fertilizers that feed over longer periods of time, but we're accomplishing other things as well with our visits. For example, we want to see if there are any dry spots or weed problems that need to be kept in check. In addition, some weeds appear in the spring while other weeds show up in the fall, and we need to control them all.

We have specific tasks we are doing on each visit. Our equipment is calibrated to provide the proper rate, our vehicle is fully loaded for our day’s work, and we are well-organized, resulting in an efficient use of our time. We will be many more times efficient than the average homeowner because of the above as well as the fact that we do this every day. When we are out on the lawn, we inspect the turf for potentially damaging insects, weeds, or diseases. We also note your cultural practices and leave information for your review. In addition to the inspections completed upon each visit, depending on location, a free mid-summer inspection is completed with a written report left for review by the homeowner. The value you are receiving is in the good results and information. Satisfaction guaranteed – and, hopefully, through good communication up front, a realistic expectation of the results has been presented to you.

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